The field of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one up to see what each of the hoopla was with this particular drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Exactly How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for simple learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot going for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very economical price. Handling is nice also after you get used to the kit setup, and it accepts an incredibly great deal of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for people who prefer to tinker, which means that this car should grow with you as your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts at the base for the front and back diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these are used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find a number of left empty. They may be helpful to control chassis flex, however, not using the stock top deck; an optional you need to be obtained. The design is comparable to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily available and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Aside from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll as the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious quantity of steering throw they have got. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as next to the edges in the chassis as possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I needed a great servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. It is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, however i do remember a technique I used some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a go of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the outside using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this particular test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I found myself heading there to perform a picture shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is very amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Including the CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This can be, to some extent, on account of the awesome handling from the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I understand that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, you may control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in affect the angle in the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, and also the Novak system is ideal for simply that. I have done must be a bit creative with the install in the system as a result of only a little space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for quite a while, it can do have a little getting used to with the knowledge that an auto losing grip and sliding is correctly throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at below several inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, as well as the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you feel as if you require more of something anything there’s lots of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the car together with the kit setup plus it was only a matter of battery power pack or two before I was swinging the rear round the hairpins, throughout the carousel and backwards and forwards with the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s very little you could do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did, however, have an issue with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept along with it, looking to overcome the matter with driving, but soon were required to RPM Team losi parts it straight into actually look it over. In the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.